While both great, these two outcomes are achieved by distinct processes; the smokiness comes from the smoke (bold claim there), while the tenderness comes from low and slow cooking, usually around 225 degrees for as long as 18 hours. If you want smokiness, you need a smoker (or you can cheat and buy liquid smoke, but you run the risk of heresay). If you want tenderness, you just need to cook the meat in a low oven for a long time (overnight works well, nothing easier than cooking while you sleep).
As a test case to prove this point, I decided to cook up a picnic ham (uncured front leg of a pig) for our department's annual autumn gathering. The recipe was basically an amalgamation of slow roast recipes from Paula Wolfert's The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's aptly named The River Cottage Meat Cookbook:
The rub recipe was basically my concoction:
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon lavender
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 8-10 lb. picnic ham, skin (rind) on
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Score the ham all over with a knife, then combine the rub ingredients and rub (naturally) them all over the meat. Place the meat, skin side up, on a rack in a roasting pan and pop in the oven for about 45 minutes, until the skin gets nice and crisp. Turn the oven down to 225 and pour about a cup of water or wine in the bottom of the pan and go to bed. Seriously, go to bed, the meat will still be their the next morning when you get up.
When you do get up take the meat out when it hits about 175 degrees. There isn't much worry of overcooking here; if it gets up to 190, it just won't be sliceable (think french pulled pork). Let the roast rest for about 20 minutes, then pull of the skin (cracklins), dice, and pass at the table with the sliced (or shredded) pork. I heated up the drippings on the stovetop with a bit of white wine for a quick pan gravy.
Here is a shot of the meat getting its rub on:
And here it is, post roast:
I can't emphasize both how easy and good this was (and cheap!). If you have a large crowd to feed and like to sleep, this recipe is for you.
7 comments:
Save the bone from the next one of these and freeze.
The day before cover the bone, still frozen is fine, with cold water and simmer for 6 hours. 180-190 F. The last hour toss in a couple of sliced onions, and half as much by weight each of carrots and celery, again sliced. Some herbs to match your rub, pepper corns and possibly salt.
Skim the scum off periodically.
You now have pork stock. Use this instead of water or wine, or mix with the wine.
You can also use fresh bones.
Oh yes, strain out the veggies before use.
This will make an interesting mop or pan sauce as well.
Definately-did you see Ruhlman's tip for making stock; cover the bones in water and toss in a 180 degree oven overnight. Seems like the way to go.
I saw it, but my big stock pots won't fit in the oven.
We cooked a beef stew with rice, flavoring the rice with Ruhlman's savory smoked bacon. Wonderful.
It is amazing how a little cured meat can enhance the flavor of a dish. I'm making a brown rice and lentil stew, and with just a half pound of diced tasso, it turns out absolutely amazing.
I need to do this. In California the weather is moderate most of the year. I have a covered patio and barbeque is a year round event.
The thing about the oven is, you whole house will smell so good. Bravo!
Yes, the smell in the morning was heavenly. I'm originally from MN, so I BBQ year round too, otherwise there would be no time for it!
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